Dienstag, 25. September 2012

“Meu marido não quer transar desde a gravidez”

Neste post, uma mãe desabafa sobre a falta de sexo durante a gravidez e após o nascimento de seu filho. Apesar de ela desejar manter relações com o marido, ele não quer saber de mais nada e a deixou “subindo pelas paredes”.

Descobri que estava grávida no final do ano passado e, desde então, venho passando por uma situação que acredito ser a de outras mulheres: ausência de sexo!
Escolhi confessar sobre isso  por achar que deve haver por aí mulheres como eu que não são do tipo que pensam: sexo vem em segundo lugar, agora tenho meu filho! Ou ainda: não tenho desejo pelo meu marido, quero apenas cuidar do meu filho!
Não! Eu quero sentir prazer, quero ser desejada e quero que meu marido saiba que não é porque amamento e troco fraldas que não vou mais vestir aquela fantasia de enfermeira…quem sabe de babá!
Eu já namorava há 7 anos quando engravidei, não morávamos oficialmente juntos, mas eu passava grande parte da semana na casa dele. Depois do exame de gravidez dar positivo, meu marido dizia que não queria transar por causa do bebê, porque agora como mãe ele me achava uma pessoa “abençoada”. Ser mãe, para ele, é como passar a ser um anjo (e todos sabem o que dizem dos anjos: NADA DE SEXO). Eu odiei essa história e passei a gravidez toda subindo pelas paredes. Afinal, não dava pra procurar outro cara (queria sexo, mas queria com o pai do meu filho!).
Pesquisei sobre o assunto na internet e só encontrei recados para os homens, dando dicas de como lidar com a mulher nessa fase em que ela pode passar a rejeitar o sexo (??Deus me livre!), por medo de machucar o bebê (???todo mundo sabe que isso não acontece) ou por insatisfação com as mudanças no corpo (que se dane a falta de cintura, o mamilo que escureceu, o homem é que tem que fingir que não está vendo!). Sempre o mesmo blá,blá,blá, falando de mulheres que não tem nada a ver comigo! Me vi como no filme “Se eu fosse você”. Será que eu era o homem, agora??
Acredito que tenham outras mulheres por aí pensando como eu, que querem prazer, e não sozinhas, mas com seus parceiros!
Depois que o bebê nasceu fiquei contando os dias para terminar o tal resguardo, por mim não cumpriria, mas meu marido não se mostrou incomodado. Entendo que pode ser difícil sentir tesão por alguém que usa absorvente para seios, mas o mínimo que ele tem que fazer é retribuir a felicidade que eu o proporcionei dando o filho que ele tanto desejava, e não me deixar em casa para cuidar dele e do filho, sem sexo, sem cerveja, sem happy hour com os meus amigos.

creditos: http://bebe.abril.com.br

Perca 3 kg em apenas 1 semana O segredo é simples: corte ao máximo os alimentos industrializados do seu cardápio!



Atualizado em 20/09/2012
Daniella De Caprio
Conteúdo do site ANAMARIA
Frutas frescas, verduras, legumes, nozes, ovos e frutos do mar são alimentos que devem ser incorporados ao seu dia a dia
Foto: Getty Images
Imagine que você voltou no tempo e é uma mulher das cavernas. O que você comeria? Num mundo sem alimentos industrializados e que fazem mal à saúde, você viveria melhor e mais magra.
Então, por que não começar agora uma dieta na qual irá consumir apenas alimentos naturais? Frutas frescas, verduras, legumes, nozes, ovos e frutos do mar são alguns alimentos naturais que podem (e devem) ser incorporados ao seu dia a dia.
Confira as dicas da coordenadora da área de nutrição da rede Mundo Verde, Flávia Morais, e o cardápio elaborado pela nutricionista do Emagrecentro, Vivian Goldberger, para perder até 3 kg em uma semana.
CONFIRA: 6 motivos para seguir essa dieta!
1) Você come menos sem perceber
Pesquisas revelam: quem segue a dieta dos alimentos naturais consome 400 calorias a menos do que quem segue a dieta mediterrânea (conhecida pelo baixo consumo de gordura animal), sentindo-se igualmente satisfeita. Isso acontece porque você consome mais proteínas, dando ao organismo uma sensação maior de estar com o estômago cheio.
2) Bloqueia o excesso de calorias
Seguir essa dieta também faz com que a pessoa consuma 45% mais fibras do que as outras. Esses nutrientes queimam as gorduras, para que não sejam  absorvidas.
3) Reduz os riscos de doenças do coração
Pesquisas revelaram que aumentar o consumo de frutas frescas, verduras e legumes de três para seis porções ao dia pode diminuir os riscos de doenças cardíacas e AVC em até 20%.
4) Diminui os níveis de colesterol
Estudos mostraram que pessoas que consomem nozes todos os dias diminuíram em até 7% o colesterol ruim do organismo. Inclua no seu cardápio diário duas unidades.
5) Você pode evitar a obesidade
Na maioria das vezes, alimentos industrializados sofrem adição de substâncias (corantes e conservantes) que melhoram sua cor, sabor, aroma e textura. Além disso, eles contêm açúcares e gorduras, substâncias relacionadas à obesidade, diabetes e doenças cardiovasculares. Ao preferir alimentos naturais, você consome
mais nutrientes, fibras e menos açúcares, prevenindo várias doenças.
6) Protege contra hipertensão
Alimentos industrializados também possuem grande quantidade de sódio, o que colabora para o aumento da pressão sanguínea.
Siga o nosso cardápio e fique seca rapidinho
Segunda-feira
· Café da manhã: 1 fatia de melão + 1 fatia de pão integral caseiro com 1 fatia de tofu + 1 xícara de chá verde
· Lanche: 1 banana em rodelas salpicadas com farelo de aveia integral
· Almoço: 1 fatia grande de quibe assado de proteína de soja + 2 colheres (sopa) de purê de grão-de-bico
· Lanche: 1 copo (100 ml) de suco de melão
· Jantar: Salada agridoce (manga, repolho, feijão-fradinho, cenoura, semente de girassol, hortelã, limão, mel, vinagre balsâmico, óleo de gergelim) + 1 fatia de melão
· Ceia: 1 xícara de chá de gengibre
Terça-feira
· Café da manhã: 1 copo (200 ml) de suco de laranja com 1 colher (sopa) de farinha de maçã
· Lanche: 1 ameixa
· Almoço: 1 abobrinha média recheada com ricota, cebola picadinha e salsa gratinada
· Lanche: 1 copo (100 ml) de suco de laranja com acerola
· Jantar: 1 prato raso de salada de lentilha, tomate, cebola roxa, queijo gorgonzola, vinagre balsâmico, tomilho e salsinha + 1 tangerina
· Ceia: 1 xícara de chá verde
Quarta-feira
· Café da manhã: 1 taça com 6 morangos grandes salpicados com 1 colher (sopa) de flocos de aveia integral + 1 copo (100 ml) de chá verde
· Lanche: 1 cacho de uvas
· Almoço: 2 pegadores de macarrão integral com molho ao sugo
· Lanche: 1 copo (200 ml) de limonada
· Jantar: 1 prato fundo de sopa de feijão-branco e legumes + 1 taça de morangos
· Ceia: 1 xícara de chá de gengibre
Quinta-feira
· Café da manhã: 1 copo (200 ml) de suco de caju + 1 fatia de pão integral caseiro + 1 fatia média de tofu salpicado com orégano
· Lanche: 1 fatia de abacaxi com folhinhas de hortelã raladas
· Almoço: 1 prato raso de salada de folhas verdes com cenoura baby + 2 colheres (sopa) de purê de mandioquinha + 3 almôndegas de frango
· Lanche: 1 copo (200 ml) de suco de caju
· Jantar: 1 prato fundo de sopa de cebola com croûtons de pão integral + 1 fatia de abacaxi
· Ceia: 1 xícara de chá verde
Sexta-feira
· Café da manhã: 1 taça de salada de frutas salpicada com 1 colher (sopa) de farinha de maçã
· Lanche: 1 copo (200 ml) suco de goiaba almoço: 1 prato raso de salada 4 grãos (arroz integral, cevadinha, quinoa, trigo integral, óleo de gergelim, coco fresco
ralado)
· Lanche: 50 g de soja tostada
· Jantar: 1 prato fundo de caldo de carne caseiro salpicado com cheiro-verde + 1 goiaba vermelha
· Ceia: 1 xícara de chá de gengibre
Sábado
· Café da manhã: 1 copo (250 ml) de suco de laranja com acerola e beterraba sem coar
· Lanche: 1 tangerina
· Almoço: 1 hambúrguer de quinoa com mandioca e legumes diversos
· Lanche: 50 g de mix de frutas desidratadas
· Jantar: 1 prato raso (sobremesa) de salada de folhas + 1 tomate cru grande recheado com ricota temperada + 1 kiwi
· Ceia: 1 xícara de chá verde
Domingo
· Café da manhã: 1 copo (250 ml) de vitamina de morango com leite de soja
· Lanche: 2 cookies de aveia integral
· Almoço: 1 pedaço de frango assado sem pele + 1 pegador de nhoque de abóbora ao sugo
· Lanche: 1 copo (200 ml) de suco de morango
· Jantar: 1 sanduíche (2 fatias de pão integral com patê de tofu e tomate seco com folhas de rúcula) + 1 copo (100 ml) de água de coco
· Ceia: 1 xícara de chá de gengibre
Lembre-se: Lave bem os alimentos antes de consumi-los para evitar resíduos de agrotóxicos

creditos: http://mdemulher.abril.com.br

Freitag, 14. September 2012

Olhos Pintados em Tecido para Aplicacao


Uma Ideia Maravilhosa e Pratica para quem nao sabe pintar os olhinhos dos bonecos o site Barraco de farrapo teve a grande ideia de pintar os olhinhos em tecido para aplicacao.
Nossa!!!!!!!!!!! Vai ajudar varios artesaos que tem essa dificuldade
Parabens!


Amigurumi Ursinho em Croche

Sweater bearies

Materials:

- Yarn scraps in various colors of your choice ( body color, muzzle color, sweater color, two different sweater stripe colors).
- Black beads for the eyes.
- Embroidery floss for the nose.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook, which resulted in a 3 inch bear.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the stitch before the switch already has to be in the new color.

Torso
The torso is worked in the round in rows, not a spiral. This is to make sure the color changes line up neatly.

R1: Using the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st to close.
R2: ch 1, sc inc in next st, around, sl st to close (12)
R3: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (18)
R4: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (18) Change to the sweater color.
R5: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (18)
R6: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 16 st, sl st to close (17) Change to stripe color A.
R7: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (17) Change to stripe color B.
R8: ch 1, sc in next 8 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st, sl st to close (16)
R9: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (16) Change to stripe color A.
R10: ch 1, sc in next 12 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, sl st to close (15) Change to the sweater color.
R11: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (15) Fasten off and stuff.

Head
R1: Using the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (30)
R6: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (36)
R7-R12: Work even (36)
R13: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st, around (30)
R14: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st, around (24)
R15: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18)
R16: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st, around (15) Fasten off and stuff.

Muzzle
R1: Using the muzzle color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12) Fasten off.

Embroider the nose, then sew the muzzle to the head. After that, sew the head to the torso. Make sure to orient the seam of the torso color changes towards the side, so that it will be hidden by the bear's left arm.
Sew on black beads for eyes, set wide and low.

Ears (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4-R5: Work even (18) Fasten off.

Don't stuff the ears, but fold them flat. Sew them to the head at a curve, so they are nicely cupped.

Arms (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc around (6) Change to the sweater color.
R3-R7: Work even (6) Fasten off and sew to the torso.

Collar
R1: ch 19, turn, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 17 ch. Fasten off.

Wrap the collar around the neck of the bear, wrong side of the stitches facing outward. Secure at the back of the neck.

Legs (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2-R4: Work even (6) Fasten off and sew to the torso.
creditos

Donnerstag, 13. September 2012

Amigurumis Elefantes emTrico

Here are two ways how to knit Flower Power Elephants - round and flat.


Here is a pattern for a funny knitted elephant. The pattern is for free. It would be great a “happy back to school day” surprise for your kid or just something to knit in between bigger projects :o).
The elephant toys are knitted in round on double pointed needles. They knit up quickly and is a great way to use up small amounts of yarn.

Anna was kind enough to translate the pattern into German. Thank you very much, Anna!

Round version

Body, head, trunk and tail (in one piece):
Cast on 8 stitches leaving a long end for an elephant tail. Distribute among 4 needles and join. Place marker.
Rnd 1: K
Rnd 2: (K1, M1) x 8 (16 sts)
Rnds 3 - 4: K (2 rounds)
Rnd 5: (K2, M1) x 8 (24 sts)
Rnds 6 – 7: K (2 rounds)
Rnd 8: (K3, M1) x 8 (32 sts)
Rnds 9 - 11: K (3 rounds)
Rnd 12: (K4, M1) x 8 (40 sts)
Rnds 13 – 32: K (20 rounds)
Rnd 33: (K3, K2tog) x 8 (32 sts)
Rnd 34-35-36: K
Rnd 37: (K2, k2tog) x 8 (24 sts)
Rnd 38 - 39: K (2 rounds)
Rnd 40: (K4, k2tog) x4 (20 sts)
Rnds 41- 43: K (3 rounds)
Rnd 44: (K3, k2tog) x 4 (16 sts)
Rnds 45 – 69: K (25 rounds)
Cast off loosely and cut yarn. Stuff with fiberfill , pull the body firmly, and then very lightly stuff the trunk. Then tie the trunk in 4 places (see photo).

From a cast on leaving long end make elephant tail - with a hook (5 chain stitches, break yarn). Sew the hole under the tail.

Ears (make two pieces)
Cast on 12 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew ears to head. They are knitted with garter stitch, flat.
Rows 1-3: K (3 rows)
Row 4: Sl1, M1, K10, M1, K1 (14 sts)
Rows 5 – 7: K (3 rows)
Row 8: Sl1, K1, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K 2 (12 sts)
Row 9: K
Row 10: Sl1, K1, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2 (10 sts)
Row 11: K
Row 12: Sl1, K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K2 (8 sts)
Row 13: K
Row 14: (K2tog) x 4 (4 sts)
Cast off. Cut yarn leaving a long end.

Legs (make four pieces)
Cast on 12 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew the leg to body. Distribute among 4 needles and join.
Rnd 1 - 5: K (5 rounds)
Cut yarn leaving a long end. Thread it through sts left on knitting needles, pull to gather tightly, then fasten off. Weave in ends (not the CO tail – use that for sewing arm onto body). Stuff with fiberfill and sew to the body.

FINISHING
Sew legs to the body using yarn end left when casting on.
Sew ears on head, making sure both sides of CO edge are held flat against each other.
Embroider the eyes and flowers on Elephant’s body.

Bow
Cast on 6 sts and knit garter stitch (all stitches K) 13 rows. In every row don’t knit the first stitch, slip it only - than the edge of it looks neat. Cast off. Add the bow to elephant's head.

Flat version

Body, head, trunk and tail (in one piece):
Cast on 9 stitches, leaving a long end for elephant tail.
Row 1: P.
Row 2: (K1, M1) x 8. K1 (17 sts)
Row 3 – 5: st st (3 rows)
Row 6: (K2, M1) x 8, K1 (25 sts)
Rows 7 – 9: st st (3 rows)
Row 10: (K3, M1) x 8, K1 (33 sts)
Rows 11 – 13: st st (3 rows)
Row 14: (K4, M1) x 8, K1 (41 sts)
Rows 15 – 29: st st (15 rows)
Row 30: (K3, K2tog) x 8, K1 (33 sts)
Rows 31 – 33: st st (3 rows)
Row 34: (K2, K2tog) x 8, K1 (25 sts)
Rows 35 – 37: st st (3 rows)
Row 38: (K3, K2tog) x 5 (20 sts)
Rows 39 – 41: st st (3 rows)
Row 42: (K3, K2tog) x 4 (16 sts)
Rows 43 – 67: st st (25 rows).

Cast off loosely and cut off yarn. Sew up body, stuffing as you sew. Body stuff firmly, and trunk - lightly. Then tie the trunk in 4 places (see photo).

Using crochet hook make a tail from cast on leaving long end (5 chain stitches. Cut yarn.

Ears (make two pieces)
Cast on 12 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew ears to head.
Rows 1 – 3: K
Row 4: Sl 1, M1, K10, M1, K1 (14 sts)
Rows 5 – 7: K (3 rows)
Row 8: Sl 1, K1, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K2 (12 sts)
Row 9: K
Row 10: Sl 1, K1, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2 (10 sts)
Row 11: K
Row 12: Sl 1, K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K2 (8 sts)
Row 13: K
Row 14: (K2tog) x 4 (4 sts)
Cast off. Cut yarn leaving a long end.

Legs (make four pieces)
Cast on 13 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew the leg to body.
Start from P row: 5 rows st st.
Cut yarn. Thread it through sts left on knitting needles, pull to gather tightly, then fasten off. Join row ends of the leg, leaving the top edge open. Stuff with fiberfill and sew to the body.

Embroider the eyes and flowers on Elephant’s body.

FINISHING
Sew ears on head, making sure both sides of cast on edge are held flat against each other.

Bow
Cast on 6 sts and knit garter stitch (all stitches K) 13 rows. In every row don’t knit the first stitch, slip it only - than the edge of it looks neat. Cast off.


By using our free patterns:
1. You are granted permission by us to use the knitting instructions for your personal use, charity and knitting pleasure.
2. You agree to use the file and any print-outs of its contents for personal use only.
3. Re-selling or sharing of the file or its contents, either in whole or part, is not permitted.
4. You may not sell the finished toys made from the pattern.
creditos http://twinsknit.blogspot.com.br/2008/07/flower-power-elephants.html

Amigurumis Bonequinhas

Basic doll instructions

Head and body

R1: Using the skin color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (30)
R6: Work even (30)
R7: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (36)
R8-R12: Work even (36)
R13: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st, around (30)
R14: Work even (30)
R15: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st, around (24)
R16: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18) Stuff the head firmly. Change to the body color of your choice.
R17: Work even (18)
R18: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21)
R19-R25: Work even (21)
R26: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 5 st, around (18) Stuff firmly.
R27: sc next 2 tog, sc in next st, around (12) Stuff more.
R28: sc next 2 tog, around (6) Fasten off and weave in the end. Embroider a face according to your own taste, or look at the pictures for inspiration.

Legs

R1: Using the leg color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3-R5: Work even (12)
R6: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 10 st (11)
R7: Work even (11)
R8: sc in next 5 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st (10)
R9: Work even (10)
R10: sc in next 3 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 5 st (9)
R11: Work even (9)
R12: sc in next 7 st, sc next 2 tog (Cool
R13: Work even (Cool
R14: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st (7)
R15: Work even (7) Stuff the lower leg firmly at the bottom, and more lightly towards the top. The rest of the leg will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing.
R16: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next st (6)
R17-R44: Work even (6). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Make another leg, then sew both to the body.

Arms

R1: Using the skin color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (Cool
R3-R5: Work even (Cool
R6: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 6 st (7)
R7: Work even (7) If neccessary, put a small amount of stuffing in the hand. The rest of the arm will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing.
R8: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st (6)
R9-R22: Work even (6) Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Make another arm, then sew both to the body.

Specific instructions

A-line mini dress

Make the head like in the basic pattern until it's time to change to the body color. Change to the body color, but don't clip the skin color yet, just leave it hanging for now. Continue as follows:

R18: In the front loops only: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21)

You've now laid down the base round for the dress. Don't clip the dress color, but pick up the skin color again.

Crochet along the inside now, in the back loops that you left in the previous round, without increasing, making 18 stitches. This way you'll have two layers of crochet on top of each other, namely a skin layer, and a dress layer. Continue crocheting the skin layer as follows:

R19-R20: Work even (18)
R21: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21)
R22-R24: Work even (21) Now change color for the panties. This is important, otherwise your doll will be very indecent under that little mini dress.
R25: Work even (21)
R26: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st, around (18) Stuff firmly.
R27: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st, around (12). Stuff more.
R28: sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off and weave in the end.

Now go back to where you left off the dress layer. Continue as follows:

R19: Work even (21)
R20: sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, around (24)
R21 Work even (24)
R22: sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, around (27)
R23 Work even (27)
R24: sc inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, around (30)
R25 Work even (30)
R26: sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, around (33)
R27 Work even (33)
R28: sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, around (36)
R29: sc in next 2 st, ss in next 3 st. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Ballerina skirt

Finish the head and body according to the basic pattern. After that, the skirt is crocheted directly onto the body, around the stitches of R24.

R1: sc in every st around (21)
R2: sc inc in next st, around (42)
R3: sc inc in next st, around (84)
R4: ss in next 2 st. Fasten off and weave in the end.

If you think crocheting around the body is too fiddly, you could also make the skirt as a separate piece and sew it on. In that case, start with a foundation chain of 21 and join with a slip stitch. After that, continue with the skirt pattern as instructed.

Stripy thigh-high stockings

Make the legs according to the basic pattern, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the leg. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 15 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the leg. When sewing on the legs, make sure that the color changes are along the inside of the leg. This way, they will be less apparent.

Knee-high boots with stripy thigh-high stockings

Make the legs according to the basic pattern, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use whatever color you want the sole of the boot to be. For the next 12 rounds, use the boot color. For the next two rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the leg. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 7 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the leg. When sewing on the legs, make sure that the color changes are along the inside of the leg. This way, they will be less apparent.

Arms with short sleeves

Crochet the arms according to the basic pattern, but make the last two rounds in the sleeve color.

Arms with arm warmers

Make the arms according to the basic patterns, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use skin color. For the next two rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the arm. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 5 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the arm. When sewing on the arms, make sure that the color changes are along the bottom of the arm. This way, they will be less apparent.

Afro hair

The afro hairdo consists of two parts: the front part which has corn rows, and the back part which is puffy. To make the corn rows, simply make long stitches with black yarn, spaced apart slightly. For the puffy part, we'll sew on small loops of yarn with sewing thread. To start, attach the yarn to the top front of the head, straight off the skein. Weave in the short end. Now make a small loop around your index finger, and sew it to the head. Two stitches should be enough for that: one around the yarn, and one right through. Continue to make loops like that, in a spiral following the hair line all around the head. When making loops around the side and bottom of the head, make the loops around your pinkie finger instead. This way, you'll subtly shape the hair.

When you get back to the top, continue making another spiral of hair along the previous one, just close enough the provide coverage. It took me three spirals to cover the whole head, but it may depend on the yarn how much you'll need. After you have full coverage, cut the yarn off the skein and weave in the end.

To make a little hair band, chain 38 and join with a slip stitch. Fasten off. You could weave in the ends, or simply tie them into a little bow to finish it off.

Pigtail hair

Take the yarn for the hair and wrap it around a book, about 50 times. Take the loops off the book and cut through the loops once. Now you'll have 50 hairs of equal lenght. Take a hair, fold it lenghtwise to find the middle. Then, use sewing thread in a color that matches the hair to sew it to the top middle on the head, starting at the hair line. Two stitches should be enough for that: one around the yarn, and one right through. Keep sewing on hairs, going in a straight line down to the bottom middle of the head. Now that the hair is secured at the parting, pull the hair into two pig tails. After that, sew the pig tails tightly to the side of the head. Tie bows around the pig tails to finish it off.

creditos: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=298179.msg3399589#msg3399589

Mittwoch, 12. September 2012

Marshmallows em Feltro


Mini Bonequinhos feito de meia 糖果娃娃DIY教學一系列1:歡樂童年【棋茵老師】




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Amigurumi Macaquinho

Amigurumis Cerejinhas, Flores , Folhas e Ervilha com grafico

Crochet Geek - How to Make a Crochet Sock Monkey - Amigurumi




Crochet Sock Monkey













Crochet Sock Monkey

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Crochet Sock Monkey

Video Tutorial: Left Hand Crochet Sock Monkey

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch

SC DEC - Single Crochet Decrease
FSC - Foundation Single Crochet

FHDC - Foundation Half Double Crochet
FDC - Foundation Double Crochet

Materials
Size G/4.0 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn - 3 colors - Colors of your choice.
Tapestry Needle

Polyester Fiberfill or stuffing of your choice

Stitch Instructions and Definitions
Single Crochet Decrease - This is joining 2 single crochet together and reducing them down to 1 single crochet. You insert the hook through the first stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook and pull the yarn through. There will be two loops on the hook.  Insert the hook through the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull it through. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through all 3 loops. 



Continual Round - The purpose of the continual round is to eliminate joining and seams.  You can start a continual round on any joined round.  The technique is done by working the first stitch in top of the stitch you would typically join the round. It is creating a jog up. When you come around to the beginning of the next round, you will not have to join.  Most likely there will be increasing on a continual round.  You will want to use a yarn marker to mark the first or last stitch, so you have an idea where to make your increase rounds. 

Yarn Marker - I just use scrap piece of yarn to mark rounds. I have also used paper clips and bread twisty ties.

Time Code is noted in this video on each segment.  You can click on each segment in the written instructions to be taken ahead in the video or you can scroll to the time code.



Arms, Legs and Tail - Make 5   -  Time Code: :29
Bottom Section

Row 1: Work 10 Foundation Single Crochet
Row 2-10: Work a SC in the first stitch. Work in the loop below the stitch to create the rib effect for each of the 8 stitches between. Work the last single crochet through the top of the stitch.
Working on the inside: To join, sew though the same loop below the stitch, to push the top stitch forward to complete the rib look. Sew the seam across. Gather the opening on one end. Sew and secure. Turn right side out when complete.

This is an alternative to the foundation stitches.
Bottom Section 2: Chain 3, join, 
Round 1: chain 1, work 10 SC through the loop, do not join. 
Round 2-10: work 1 SC in each stitch around.


Upper Section 
Attach the new color anywhere along the top of the row. 
Round 11: Work 10 single crochet evenly around. Do not join and work in a continual round. The first single crochet  of round 12, will be right in the top of the round 11 single crochet.
Round 12-30:  Work 1 SC in each stitch around.
Lightly stuff each segment.

Body - Time Code 9:56
Chain 4, join
Round 1: Ch 1, work 9 SC through the loop, do not join.
Round 2:  Work 2 SC in each stitch around.  (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 4: *Work 1 SC, work 2 SC, continue around from * (27 Single Crochet total)
Round 5-17: 1 SC in each stitch around.  (27 Single Crochet total)
Round 18: *1 SC, 1SC DEC, continue around from * (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 19: 1 SC in each stitch around.  (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 20: *1 SC, 1 SC DEC, continue around from * (12 Single Crochet total)
Stuff with fiberfill  on round 19 and sew the top shut upon completing round 20.


Head  - Time Code 23:29
Chain 4, join
Round 1: Ch 1, work 9 SC through the loop, do not join.
Round 2:  Work 2 SC in each stitch around.  (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 4: *Work 1 SC, work 2 SC, continue around from * (27 Single Crochet total)
Round 5:  Even work 5 single crochet increases around (32 Single Crochet total)
Round 6-18: 1 SC in each stitch around. (32 Single Crochet total)
Round 19: *1 SC, 1 SC DEC, continue around from *, 
Round 20: 1 SC in each stitch around.
Round 21: *1 SC, 1 SC DEC, continue around from *
Stuff head between round 19 and 20.  Sew head shut upon completing round 21.



Snout/Mouth - Time Code 18:08
Round 1: Work 1 FSC, FHDC, FDC, FDC, FHDC, FSC,  
Working down the opposite side. Work 2 single crochet in the FSC stitch. Work a HDC opposite the FHDC, work 1 DC opposite each FDC. HDC in the next, 2 SC in the last stitch, join. 
Round 2: Ch 1, work 1 SC in each stitch across, work 3 SC in the mouth corner for the increase, work 1 SC in each stitch across, Work 3 SC in the mouth corner for the increase, join with the beginning stitch. Cut the yarn and change color.
Round 3: Attach new color with a slip stitch close to mouth corner. There will be a top and bottom to the snout. You may want to attach a yarn marker to mark the top.  
Top: Work 1 SC, 2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC, 2SC in next stitch, 1 SC, 2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC, 2 SC in next stitch. Continue around to the bottom with 1 SC in each stitch.
Bottom:  Work 2 SC in the same stitch  close to the mouth corner.  Work 1 SC in each stitch across.  Work 2 SC in the last stitch and 1 SC in the remaining stitches. Join with the beginning stitch.
Round 4: CH 1, Work 1 SC in each stitch around, join with the beginning stitch.
You will embellish the mouth and nose features before attaching to the face.  Align the bottom of the snout close to round 5 on the head.  Sew the bottom of the snout to the face before adding the stuffing.


Attaching Segments - Time Code 36:51


Ears - Make 2 - Time Code
CH 3, join,
Round 1: CH 1,Work 6 SC, join.
Round 2: CH 1,Work 2 SC in each stitch around, join.
Round 3: CH 1,Work 1 SC in each stitch around, join.


Eye - Make 2 - Time Code - 38:53
Chain 2, Work 3 single crochet in the second chain from the hook. Join with the beginning stitch. Cut off a long length of tail for attaching to face.  Align and sew the eyes to the face.  Use the extra tail to sew on eyebrows and any extra features. Know and secure the tail. Sew in and cut it off.


credito



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